Thanks Inny i do appreciate it heaps

cheers

Nice set ups inny, Im just curios, do your gecko's climb much? As i would like to get some geckos but i need to get an bit of info on them so i can squeeze them into my herp room

thanks for sharing!

Well Ok, ill try to elaborate. Yes they do climb, only at night though, they are nocturnal. There a clawed species so theycant climb glass, no sticky pads on their feet (scansors), so any aquarium, with some floor space, around 2ft square will house a pair nicely.
We keep ours on sand, its much easier to clean but ours are adults, I wouldnt put hatchlings on any substrate but paper towel, they might ingest sand, geckos do lick alot.
In sydney, no heat is required, however Ive found ours like a permant warm space all the same, we keep a nice stable flat rock in one corner (on glass not on sand ,they dig) and under that crn of the tank, a 15watt heatcord coiled up loosely.
The geckos seem to reallyuse the belly heat to digest faster, they move away when they want. No other heat source.
No Uv required as they are nocturnal.
A flatish peice of bark, or similar 'close' dark hides are best. Branches add another dimension to their living quarters, and ours do use them alot, even chase crix up branches.
A water bowl (shallow) of freshwater is advised at all times, not many gecko's will drink from still water, though one of ours does.
This is remedied by similating conditions in the wild, particularly the formation of dew, which geckos derive most of their water from licking.
As this occures early morning, we mist the tank walls each morning.
However our geckos are rarely active in the mornings so we also mist once each night, just lightly.
This ensures they have the opportunity to re-hydrate while they are active. Its great to watch them lick moisture, lick their eyes and stalk prey! Very cool lizards.
Fake plants look ok and afford your geckos extra visual security and places with cover overhead, they are scardeycats!
They do tolerate very breif handlingand not very often, if too stressed they lose their tail, and re-generated tails take awhile to grow back and spoil its appearance, and camoflage.
Dusted crix of appropriate size (no wider than the gap between the eyes) fed ad lib (always avail) in warmer months, sparingly in cooler months.
Keep a half fresh carrot or chunky peice (raw)in the enclosure if leaving crix in all the time, you can also add a leaf of green lettuce or buk choy, this gives the crix food, gathers them together making easier hunting, and gutloads the food at the same time.
Sift/spot clean poos daily, change sand every month at least.

Other areas:
A moist hide can be provided in the otherwise dry enviroment, it can be as simple as a dark plastic lunchbox with moist spaghum moss inside, as long as its dark inside.
They will hang out inthis moist hide when sloughing the skin, the extra humidity will assist.
No daylight lighting needed just an ordinary room is fine, gecks will be hiding anyway and there is no benefit i know of from having a photoperiod (outside light shining inthe room and dropping tmps will see them brummate naturally)
They will also eat woodies and small moths.

Hope that helps

Oh yeah....

There real fast when they want to be, be careful when handling, if they fall from standing height, they could be serious injured internally, drop their tail, or even break limbs. Cup your hands in a barricade, never squeeze them!

No two males together or they will fight, the males hemipene bulges are unmistakable between the vent and tail.

A trio will work as nicely, 2 girls and a male, but ours seemed to pair off so we kept pairs.

Thats all I can think of right now!